The People's Coast

The Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), going north from California into Oregon, has to be one of the most beautiful areas of natural landscape in the United States to drive through. From the bright blue Pacific Ocean to the Redwoods Forest, and eventually through the dense Douglas-Fir and Big Leaf Maple trees, there are hardly any sights to be avoided. Once you get into Oregon and the Pacific Northwest (PNW), it's an amazing new world, one vastly disparate from my New York City upbringing. My favorite part about that stretch of highway? The small fishing or logging towns offering different projections of American life, a non-Wall Street one. Recently, for the second time, I have trekked up that stretch of road in search of slower, more novel experiences. The reason? A friend and I needed to do one last big road trip before we graduate from college. We had done dozens of drives when I got my license in my senior year of high school, but college separated us from a good trip for four years. The idea was in our heads for a while; personally, there was an inclination that it would never happen, but to my surprise, he ended up pulling through, for a life-changing journey. He, a student at Michigan State, and I, a student at the University of Nevada-Reno, met up in San Francisco and drove up the coast to Seattle. Thus, these are my recommendations, as an out-of-towner city kid, for the best food and stops along Oregon's breathtaking coast (at least until you reach Tillamook).

About five minutes after passing the border from California, you reach Brookings, Oregon. It is a quaint town. One of the larger cities to discover on the PCH in Oregon, though none seem to have more than 30,000 residents. There was little to do, so my best friend and I opted for sandwiches at Railroad St. Market to eat at Harris Beach State Park. I ended up eating a Cheesesteak. Was it the best I ever had? No, not even close, but it was great considering I was 3,000 miles away from Philadelphia. We did not eat our sandwiches at the beach; instead, we filled the small rental car with an overly pungent smell of grilled onions. It was also a lackluster performance from my camera on the trip, as I was trying to immerse myself in these places, and I did ALL the driving. The awe-inspiring views at Harris Beach State Park, the sandwich, and being able to walk without battling the hard-packed sand added up to a perfect post-overeating experience. Too bad I wasn't with my girlfriend, but sharing a romantic experience with a best friend is sometimes just as fun.

After letting the car air out to try to rid it of the onion smell, we hopped back onto Highway 101 and continued north. Before reaching another town, we had noticed a turnout for the scenic spot, the Natural Bridges. As usual, I had driven right past it, but I popped a U-turn as soon as I could. It was one of the most stunning views I have ever seen (Lake Tahoe always takes the cake). We didn't end up walking down to the bridge, but we were able to catch a nice view of it. We only spent about five minutes there because I wanted to see as much as we could during daylight hours.

The next town we stopped in was Gold Beach. I was feeling a little groggy, so I wanted a coffee, but definitely not from any conglomerate chain. I stopped at a little shop called Blissful Coffee and More. I ordered the Peyton's Beans, blended. The white chocolate flavor perfectly complemented the richness of the espresso. The shop was portside, which allowed for views of the bay right outside. A little way down the road, we stopped in another town called Port Orford. This time, I wanted to satisfy my history itch, so to the Port Orford Lifeboat Station we went. Learning the history behind the old Coast Guard station was incredibly fascinating. Seated on top of a large cliff, there are five hundred or so steps that lead to the boathouse nestled within a cove down by the water. About half an hour later, we were in our most desired location, the famous seaside town of Bandon.

If you have heard of the Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, you probably already understand the beauty of this tiny, tourist-centered town. Our initial stop in this town was the 100-foot-high cliffs. After our quick stop at the cliffs, we drove two minutes into town, in search of more savory food; I was craving seafood. We parked in the "downtown" area of Bandon, next to the waterfront, and walked into a place called Tony's Crab Shack. Of course I picked another place next to the water. They had a wide variety of seafood, and I was a little nervous about the place's authenticity, but the Orleans-style oysters put that feeling to rest faster than they came out. I ordered a dozen; the price was a little more than I was used to, and they were more than any Rockefeller-style I have had at other places, but after the twenty minutes they took to come out, just the sheer sight of those aphrodisiacs took me aback. They were the size of an apple, obviously without the spherical aspect. The biggest oysters I had ever seen. They were a tad unappealing at first, but the butter and Parmesan were a succulent addition. I do not think I would've eaten them raw, nor do I think they are better than Rockefeller-style oysters. Simply put, the oysters were great and satisfied my craving for about a day.

The first time I was in Bandon, I stayed at a hotel about fifty yards from the cliffs, and I ended up meeting a friend in Coos Bay who had owned a plethora of dirt bikes, ATVs, and a souped-up, four-door (from what I remember), Bluetooth-capable Can-Am. The garage where these were stored was approximately a thirty-second drive to the dunes. Was I totally geeked out and excited like a little boy on Christmas? Tota-fucking-lly. We spent about an hour on the dunes, exploring the coast at an alarming speed in the Can-Am. I was not the least bit frightened, as Can-Am/4x4s are among the safest off-roading vehicles. I can confidently say, no matter the amount of alcohol I've consumed, racing through the dunes was one of the most intoxicating experiences of my life so far.

Following what I consider a excpetional oyster meal, we walked around the no more than a five-square-block "downtown" area of Bandon. We stopped in only one shop, an epitome of a generic tourist merchandise shop. Considering this was several days before Christmas, I had to purchase some presents for my mother and the love of my life. Postcards, sweatshirts, mugs, and magnets always suffice if you are struggling to find a gift. Heed this warning: depending on the person, car magnets can make or break the relationship, so make sure it's a fridge magnet. I then said goodbye to Bandon, Oregon, for the time being.

If you haven't seen the birthplace of Steve Prefontaine, the greatest American distance runner of all time and Nike's first brand endorser, I highly recommend it. Located in Coos Bay, once the house and maybe his old high school visits are complete, just walk and explore the town. Stop by the Pre mural and work up an appetite, because you'll need it for the next place: The Hilltop House Restaurant & Lounge. It is right across the bridge in North Bend. Order the lobster tail and the Rockefeller-style oysters. You'll thank me later, and you'll also need to disregard the prices. With floor-to-ceiling windows put in after a fire, it offers amazing 180-degree views of the bay. It was outdoor seating previously, but all indoors now. When the sun begins setting, and the sweet juiciness of the lobster hits your taste buds, it is a magical place. Do not forget to wash it down with a nice glass of red wine afterward.

The following morning, before heading for Reedsport and Tillamook, we were in need of pancakes. The Pancake Mill Restaurant & Pie Shoppe answered our prayers perfectly. I just got 2 buttermilk pancakes and a side of hashbrowns. Nothing will beat Waffle House hashbrowns in my eyes, but the pancakes were top-tier (so were the hashbrowns, I cannot lie). After quickly scarfing down our exquisite meals, we were "on the road again." Don't even ask how many times that song was played. I had pulled off at a vista point near Winchester Bay, and it did not disappoint. It looked over the ocean and what seemed like a jetty. Never will I grow tired of gazing off into the ocean. About ten minutes later, we were in Reedsport. Elk were among the animals we had yet to see in person, so we stopped to stretch our legs at an elk-viewing area. It was almost the start of winter, near high noon, and our luck had to have run out. No elk were spotted in the ten minutes we stayed, but we saw them later in our trip, thankfully.

Florence was a quick pass through, with no sights seen, but the Heceta Head Lighthouse down the road made up for not stopping. It's a unique, mysterious-looking lighthouse, a perfect setting for a midnight crime thriller. Yachats and Waldport were both beautiful in their own ways, although Yachats is preferred. The bridge in Waldport, though, was entertaining to drive along, with amazing views in both directions. Newport was nice; however, we only ended up stopping in Lincoln City. When searching online for quick food spots, I discovered my first takeout-only sushi restaurant in the United States. Was I dreaming? It sure felt like it. The small, Dutch Bro's esque hut is called Yatai Sushi. I ordered 4 pieces of Yellowtail nigiri and a Philly roll. Normally, I would just order nigiri, but it was on the pricier side, and I needed to be frugal the rest of the way. As soon as I tasted it, I couldn't even be mad at the price. The fish was amazingly fresh and melted right in your mouth; I would go back in a heartbeat.

When we were back on the road, we came across a fork. Did we want to stay on the coast or head inland on the quicker route to Tillamook? The latter was the chosen option. No more than an hour later, we arrived in our final stop on the PCH stretch in Oregon. Our one and only stop in Tillamook was the creamery. I would've been disappointed in myself if we didn't at least check it out. The creamery offers free, self-guided tours, which we ended up taking full advantage of. The observation deck, which looked over the whole process, was our favorite part. If you've never had it before, Tillamook makes amazing cheese, and you can find it in almost any grocery store. After our adventure at the creamery, we headed to Portland and drove up I-5 to Seattle. That'll be for another time.

The PCH in Oregon is my favorite stretch I have been to so far (I have yet to drive the entire PCH in Washington). The different towns and activities broadened my perspective on what life is like in the PNW, and the coast offered nonstop, astonishing views. Honestly, I could see myself living there one day, maybe in retirement. To whoever reads this, go take a leisurely drive, stop at the places I said, but most importantly, find new ones. To quote the Terminator, "I'll be back." Not sure when, but one day I'll make it to the Washington stretch.